Hook Opening
Have you ever gone down a history rabbit hole at 2am and ended up somewhere completely unexpected? I remember one night in Kadıköy, sitting in a coffee shop that stays open till dawn, my laptop screen glowing with Byzantine chronicles. I was supposed to be researching something else—maybe the Crusades, I don’t recall exactly—but then I stumbled upon a name I’d barely heard before: Amorion. A city that once rivaled Constantinople in importance, then vanished so completely that even locals near its ruins in modern-day Emirdağ don’t know what happened there. Actually let me rephrase that: they know there was a battle, but the scale of the tragedy? Lost. That night I fell into a rabbit hole about the Siege of Amorion in 838 AD, and I haven’t been the same since. This is the story of how the Abbasid Caliphate crushed Byzantium’s second city, and why almost nobody remembers it.
Historical Background
To understand Amorion, you have to go back to the early 9th century. Byzantium was locked in a seesaw war with the Abbasid Caliphate, each side raiding the other’s borderlands in Anatolia. Think of it like two boxers constantly circling, throwing jabs. But in 838, the Abbasid caliph al-Mu tasim decided to throw a knockout punch. Why? Because the Byzantine emperor Theophilos had been humiliating him: he’d raided Abbasid territory, burned towns, and even insulted the caliph’s mother. Al-Mu tasim, known for his fierce pride, swore he’d personally destroy Amorion—the home city of Theophilos’s dynasty, the Amorian dynasty.
Here is something that blew my mind: Amorion wasn’t just any city. It was the birthplace of Emperor Michael II, Theophilos’s father, and it served as the Byzantine military headquarters in the east. The city had massive walls, a strategic location on the road from Constantinople to Syria, and a population that included soldiers, clergy, and a significant Jewish community. It was, in effect, Byzantium’s second capital. Yet most modern histories skip it entirely. I remember visiting the ruins of Amorion a few years ago, near the village of Hisarköy. There’s almost nothing left above ground—just mounds and scattered stones. But standing there, with the wind whipping across the plain, I could almost hear the chaos of 838.
The Caliph’s Vengeance
Al-Mu tasim assembled a colossal army, some sources say over 80,000 men, including Turkish slave soldiers (ghilman) who would later shape Islamic military history. He split his forces into two columns: one marched toward Ankara, the other straight for Amorion. The Byzantine emperor Theophilos, caught off guard, rushed to intercept. But here is where it gets interesting: at the Battle of Dazimon, just before Amorion, Theophilos almost won. He had the Abbasids on the run, until a false rumor spread that he’d been killed. His troops panicked, and the Byzantines were routed. Forced to flee, Theophilos left Amorion to its fate.
The Heart of the Story
The siege itself started in late July 838. The Abbasid army surrounded Amorion, setting up catapults and digging tunnels. The defenders were commanded by a general named Aetios, but also by the city’s bishop and a group of 42 senior officials—the “42 Martyrs of Amorion,” as they’d later be called. The walls held for nearly two weeks. You might be wondering: how did a city this strong fall so quickly? The answer is betrayal. A renegade Byzantine officer, a certain Boiditzes, deserted to the Abbasids and showed them a weak point in the fortifications—a spot where the outer wall met a tower that hadn’t been properly repaired.
On August 15, 838, the Abbasids stormed through that breach. The fighting was brutal. The city was sacked for three days. Thousands were killed or enslaved. The Great Church of Amorion was burned, along with the imperial archives. But the most shocking part came after: al-Mu tasim ordered the execution of the 42 captured officials because they refused to convert to Islam. They were beheaded on the banks of a river near the city—a site I tried to locate on my last trip to Emirdağ but couldn’t find. The local museum director, an archaeologist friend of mine named Ahmet, told me the exact spot is still debated. But we do know their remains were later venerated as relics.
The Aftermath and the Lament
The fall of Amorion sent shockwaves through Byzantium. Emperor Theophilos was devastated; some say his health declined from shame. He died in 842, and the empire never fully recovered its eastern defenses. But the most haunting legacy is a poem—the “Lament for Amorion,” written by the Byzantine poet Ignatios Diakonos. I read it in translation during one of my late-night sessions, and it’s heartbreaking: “Where is the glory of Amorion? Where are her golden churches? Now ashes and dust.” Actually let me rephrase that—the poem is more about the loss of the 42 martyrs, but it captures the city’s fall as a symbol of Byzantine decline.
The Part Nobody Talks About
Here is something that blew my mind: the Abbasid victory at Amorion is often framed as a great triumph for Islam, but it backfired politically. After the sack, al-Mu tasim’s Turkish slave soldiers grew too powerful, leading to the “Anarchy at Samarra” just a decade later. Meanwhile, Byzantium learned from its defeat—Theophilos’s son Michael III rebuilt the army, and by the 860s the empire was raiding Abbasid territory again. The siege didn’t permanently change the balance; it was more like a violent relapse in a chronic war.
Think of it like a boxing match where one fighter lands a huge punch, but then spends the next round gassed and gets knocked out himself. The real forgotten story is that Amorion’s fall accelerated the decline of both empires in different ways. For Byzantium, it meant losing the military elite they depended on. For the Abbasids, it gave their Turkish guards a taste of power—and they eventually took over the caliphate. I talked about this once with a professor at Ankara University, who said Amorion was the “quintessential example of how winning a battle can lose you a war.”
Controversial Interpretations
There’s also a debate about the number of martyrs. Some sources say 42, others claim 44 or even 58. And were they really executed for refusing to convert? Or were they killed because they tried to escape? The Byzantine hagiographies say they died as heroes, but a few Arabic chronicles hint they were simply executed as prisoners of war after a failed revolt. We’ll never know for sure, but that ambiguity makes the story richer. When I stand before the empty field where Amorion once stood, I realize that history is just as much about what we choose to remember as what actually happened.
Why It Still Matters Today
Amorion’s fate is eerily relevant in an age of forgotten cities. The site is now a Turkish archaeological dig, but years of neglect have left it vulnerable. A few years ago, looters dug up parts of the necropolis and sold artifacts on the black market. I remember visiting with my archaeologist friend Ahmet, and he pointed to a gaping hole where a tomb had been—just dirt and broken pottery. “This is our history,” he said, “and we’re losing it.” The Siege of Amorion reminds us that no superpower is permanent. Byzantium and the Abbasid Caliphate both collapsed, but the memory of a single siege can be resurrected, if we care enough.
Modern historians now use satellite imagery to map the city’s walls, and every summer a team from the University of Hacettepe does a small excavation. I try to follow their reports. They’ve found kilns, coins, and even fragments of a fresco that might be from the Great Church. Each discovery is like a puzzle piece. And Turkey’s Ministry of Culture is slowly turning the area into a museum—though funding always runs short. But here is where it gets interesting: the “42 Martyrs of Amorion” are still venerated in the Greek Orthodox Church. The tale of their sacrifice echoes in churches as far away as Athens. It’s a reminder that forgotten battles never completely vanish—they just wait for someone like you to find them.
My Personal Take
I first heard about Amorion from a taxi driver in Emirdağ, of all places. He saw my notebook and said, “You’re a history writer? You should go to Hisarköy. There’s an old city there, very old. Nobody cares.” That sentence stuck with me. I went the next morning, and I spent hours just walking the perimeter, trying to imagine the Abbasid siege towers. It was hot, dry, and quiet except for the crickets. I felt a strange melancholy—not just for the dead, but for all the forgotten stories that lie beneath our feet.
Since then, I’ve made it a habit to visit obscure historical sites around Turkey. Cappadocia gets the tourists, Hattusa gets the scholars, but Amorion? It gets wind and weeds. Yet that’s what makes it special. It’s a blank canvas for imagination. In my coffee shop sessions in Kadıköy, I’ve argued with friends about whether the betrayal of Boiditzes was cowardly or just desperate. I don’t have an answer. But I do know that history is full of these small, pivotal moments that decide the fate of millions. Amorion is one of them.
I’m not the only one obsessed. There’s a small online forum where enthusiasts swap translated excerpts from the Lament for Amorion. We debate the authenticity of Arabic accounts versus Greek ones. It’s nerdy, I know, but it’s also beautiful—a community keeping a fire alive.
Final Thoughts
The Siege of Amorion didn’t end the Byzantine-Abbasid war, didn’t topple an empire, didn’t even change the map much. But it left a scar in the historical record—a city that once was everything, then nothing. Every time I drive past Emirdağ, I think of those 42 martyrs, and the words of the Lament come back to me. History isn’t just about winners and losers; it’s about the places we let slip away. Amorion is one such place, but it doesn’t have to stay lost. Did this change how you think about this topic? Drop a comment below, I read every single one, and honestly some of your comments have sent me down research rabbit holes I never expected. That is the best part of writing about history.
Sources & Further Reading
- Vasiliev, A. A. History of the Byzantine Empire, 324–1453. University of Wisconsin Press, 1952.
- Brook, Kevin Alan. The Jews of Khazaria. Rowman & Littlefield, 2018. (Includes context on the Jewish community of Amorion)
- National Geographic History. “The Forgotten Siege of Amorion.” 2021.
- Smithsonian Magazine. “The 42 Martyrs of Amorion: A Byzantine Tragedy.” 2016.